I finally cleaned up my basement/workshop and put some order into my tools and materials. My main source for materials in general is the garbage as the faithful readers may already know. Too bad I was too late for the Hacked Gadgets Workbench Contest.
My new soldering space
I also got some new tools a while ago. Note the precision screw driver holder made out of a plastic jar cap and the screw driver stand made out of a piece of wood I found in the garbage.
I also got some new measuring tools that are extremely useful (and make me extremely happy).
Some of my electronics parts:
I found a big potentiometer in McGill‘s garbage (universities’ garbage is pretty good). When I found it, physician it was very dirty and its body was badly bent. Fortunately, I managed to put it back together and now it is shiny and fully functional (as shiny and functional as a pot can be).
It is a 400 Ohms potentiometer made out of an array of thin metal hexagons and a contact point that moves along them. The number of hexagons in between one end of the array and the moving contact is proportional to the potentiometer’s resistance. It is roughly 50 cm long and I bet it can handle lots of current.
I found a nice breadboard in McGill’s garbage a while ago and decided to convert it into an electronics bench. My main goal was to have a powerful power supply with regulated outputs combined with a breadboard and some useful connectors so I can build circuit prototypes easily. Also, gynecologist I needed a new bench power supply since mine was lost in the Lunar Excavator shipment.
- A nice breadboard found in the garbage
- A computer power supply
- An ATX motherboard power connector
- Two LEDs with resistors for current limiting
- A switch
- Some cables
Putting it Together
I wanted to build a modular system so I can replace the pieces easily, viagra sale especially the power supply (since it comes from an old computer and may not work for very long).
I connected a switch and two LEDs (actually, my switch comes with an integrated light so I used only one LED) to the PS ON, 5V SB, and PWR OK pins so I can have an indicator of the power supply (PS) being plugged-in (D1) and another for the PS being turned ON (D2). The diagram below illustrates the connections.
I also connected the 12, 5, 3.3, 0, -5, and -12 V lines to the bottom-left banana connectors in order to have easy access to the power lines. Now, I can connect any ATX power supply to the box and it will work, which makes replacing a defective power supply very easy.
This was a fairly easy build, with the only difficult part being to find the appropriate materials in the garbage.
I may add a USB hub or some USB connectors as well in order to have more ways of connecting things to the box.
I built a bedside table for bunk beds from a pile of wood I found in the garbage and some flat nylon rope.
The Main Goal
I wanted to build a bedside table for the top bed on a bunk bed but I did not want it to become a head-banging hazard for those sleeping under it. So the table has to be rigid as seen from the top and mobile for those under it. My solution: a folding bedside table.
- Wood (six 6.8 cm x 60 cm pieces)
- Flat nylon rope
- Three cabinet-door stoppers
- Three bolts with nuts
Putting it Together
By stapling the nylon rope to one side of the wood pieces (as shown in the picture below) they become linked in a way that is rigid when applying force from the top, generic but can be folded easily if the force comes from the bottom. Note that the staples must be very close to the wood’s edge, dermatologist otherwise, the structure will become a sort of ladder since the pieces can freely hang from one another. The original SVG is also available for download for those wanting to have more precise measurements.
The wood is used to hold table since it fits very tightly under it (as seen on the right) and the rope acts as an extra safety in case the table should fall (as shown below). Of course, I wanted to have the least destructive approach for fastening the table to the bed, otherwise, I would have only used screws. Also, I added a slight upwards curve to the table by using rubber door stopper in the middle joint so the objects stay on the table instead of going sliding down. Finally, I applied a think coat of varnish so the table is easier to clean and nicer to the touch.
An advantage of this table is that it can be folded away so it is not very intrusive and of course does not hurt anybody’s head. The downside, on the other hand, is that if it is folded while something is sitting on it, the object might at best get smashed or at worst go flying around the room.